Kenmore Ice Maker NO-ICE Error: Ice Maker Not Producing Ice
The kenmore ice maker no-ice error is a fault signal from the control board — this guide walks through what it means, common causes, and safe diagnostic steps. Why Is My Kenmore Ice Maker Not Making Ice? A Kenmore built-in ice maker that has stopped producing ice is one of the most common appliance complaints […]
Quick Assessment
Answer to continue safely
Is it safe to keep using?
Yes. A Kenmore refrigerator with a non-functioning built-in ice maker is fully safe for food storage. The refrigerator and freezer cooling systems are independent of the ice maker module. The only impact is the absence of ice production.
Can I reset the code?
Yes. Many no-ice conditions on built-in Kenmore ice makers resolve by lowering the shutoff arm, clearing a supply line freeze, or performing a module reset. To reset the 106.xx module, lower the arm and press the test/feeler arm button on the module face. To reset a 795.xx module, power-cycle the refrigerator at the circuit breaker for 30 seconds.
When to stop immediately?
Stop if you notice: Ice maker module makes clicking or grinding sounds during a test cycle but does not eject ice, Fill tube remains frozen solid 30 minutes after targeted thawing — indicating a recurring freezer air leak.
Symptoms You May Notice
Ice bin is empty and has not refilled in 24 hours or more
The most definitive symptom — a normally functioning Kenmore built-in ice maker produces a full bin (approximately 4–6 lbs) every 24 hours. If the bin is empty after a day of normal refrigerator use, production has stopped for a diagnosable reason.
Ice maker arm is in the raised (off) position
Built-in Kenmore ice makers in 106.xx and 795.xx models use a wire shutoff arm that rises when the bin is full and must be lowered to the operating position to enable production. An arm left in the raised position by a displaced ice cube or accidental contact stops ice making entirely.
Water dispenser works but ice maker does not cycle
If the refrigerator water dispenser produces water normally but the ice maker does not cycle, the ice maker module itself or its dedicated water inlet valve solenoid coil is the most likely fault — the main water supply to the appliance is confirmed good.
Ice maker compartment feels warmer than the rest of freezer
When the module is not cycling, no cold air is being drawn through the ice maker housing and the mold feels noticeably less cold than the surrounding freezer walls, suggesting the module has lost power or the freezer temperature is too warm to trigger a cycle.
Possible Causes
Shutoff arm in raised position or ice maker switched off
The wire shutoff arm on Kenmore 106.xx ice maker modules rises when the bin is full and shuts off production. If the arm is stuck in the up position by a lodged ice cube or was manually raised, production stops until the arm is lowered or cleared.
DIY PossibleFrozen or kinked water supply line to the ice maker
The small-diameter plastic or copper supply line that delivers water to the ice maker inlet valve can freeze solid — typically where it passes through the back wall of the freezer compartment — or become kinked behind the refrigerator, stopping water flow to the ice maker entirely.
DIY PossibleFailed ice maker module or motor module assembly
The ice maker module (harvest motor, thermostat, ejector blades) has failed electrically or mechanically and cannot complete a freeze or harvest cycle. On Whirlpool-platform 106.xx models, the module is a replaceable assembly. On LG-platform 795.xx models, the ICEMAKER-AE assembly is replaced as a unit.
DIY PossibleSafe Checks You Can Do
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1
Confirm the shutoff arm is down and the ice maker is enabled
Open the freezer door and locate the ice maker module on the upper left wall. Verify the wire shutoff arm is in the fully lowered (horizontal) position. On Kenmore 795.xx models, also confirm the ice maker is enabled via the control panel — some models allow ice maker on/off control from the door display. If the arm is stuck in the raised position by an ice cube, remove the lodged cube and lower the arm manually.
On Kenmore 106.xx and 795.xx ice makers, the module requires a freezer temperature of 15 F or below to initiate a freeze cycle. If the freezer is set warmer than 0–5 F or has recently been warmed by a long door-open period, allow 4 hours for the temperature to stabilize before testing again.
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2
Check the water supply line for freezing or kinking
Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and inspect the water supply line from the wall valve to the back of the refrigerator. Confirm it is not kinked or pinched. Then check the water pressure at the wall supply valve — the valve should be fully open. On models with the fill tube inside the freezer, look for ice blockage at the fill tube opening directly above the ice maker tray (a hair dryer on low heat held at the tube opening for 30 seconds can thaw a mild blockage without touching the tray).
Kenmore recommends a minimum water pressure of 20 psi and a maximum of 120 psi at the inlet valve. Low pressure — common on well-pump systems — is a frequent cause of the ice maker filling incompletely, producing hollow or small cubes rather than stopping production entirely.
When to Call a Professional
Contact a qualified technician if:
- Ice maker module runs a test cycle but harvest motor stalls or ejector blades are seized — requiring module replacement
- Water inlet valve does not open during a test fill cycle despite 20+ psi confirmed water pressure — valve solenoid coil has failed
- Fill tube repeatedly freezes, indicating a gasket or damper air leak that requires freezer disassembly to correct
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