Kenmore Cooktop CLICKING Error: Igniter Clicks Continuously Without Burner Active
The kenmore cooktop clicking error is a fault signal from the control board — this guide walks through what it means, common causes, and safe diagnostic steps. What Does Kenmore Cooktop CLICKING Mean? Continuous CLICKING on a Kenmore gas cooktop means the spark ignition module is generating high-voltage pulses to one or more burner electrodes […]
Quick Assessment
Answer to continue safely
Is it safe to keep using?
Maybe. The cooktop can be used for cooking while continuous clicking is occurring — the clicking does not affect gas flow or flame stability. However, the continuous high-voltage sparking shortens the lifespan of the spark module and electrodes, and the clicking is a symptom of moisture intrusion or a failed switch that should be resolved promptly. Unplug the cooktop overnight if the clicking will not stop on its own.
Can I reset the code?
No. CLICKING is caused by a shorted switch or moisture bridging a switch contact — neither condition is cleared by a power cycle. Unplugging the cooktop stops the clicking temporarily, but it will resume as soon as power is restored unless the moisture is dried out or the failed switch is replaced.
When to stop immediately?
Stop if you notice: Clicking has continued for more than 30 minutes — unplug the cooktop to prevent spark module damage, A burning smell accompanies the clicking — indicating the spark module or wiring is overheating.
Symptoms You May Notice
Rapid clicking continues for minutes or hours after all burners are turned off
The cooktop clicks continuously in a repeating pattern after every burner is returned to the Off position. The clicking may slow slightly but does not stop unless the cooktop is unplugged or the circuit breaker is switched off.
Clicking begins after spills or cleaning
The most common trigger: liquid from a boil-over or a wet cleaning cloth has reached the ignition switch beneath the control knob, bridging the switch contacts and causing the spark module to interpret the switch as continuously pressed.
One specific burner position is associated with the stuck clicking
When listening carefully, one electrode location produces a stronger or more frequent arc than the others during the continuous clicking sequence — the ignition switch at that burner position has a shorted or stuck contact.
Clicking pauses briefly when affected knob is jiggled
Wiggling or lightly pressing the knob at the suspect burner position momentarily interrupts the continuous clicking before it resumes, confirming a stuck or moisture-bridged ignition switch at that specific knob shaft rather than a module-wide fault.
Possible Causes
Moisture or food liquid in the ignition switch assembly
Boil-over liquid, water from cleaning, or condensation has seeped into the ignition switch housing beneath one of the burner control knobs, bridging the switch contacts and causing the spark module to receive a continuous "spark requested" signal from that burner.
DIY PossibleFailed ignition switch (stuck closed)
The ignition switch behind the burner control knob has failed in the closed position — the mechanical contact inside the switch that normally opens when the knob returns to Off is permanently stuck, sending a continuous signal to the spark module.
DIY PossibleFaulty spark module generating spurious output
The spark module's internal oscillator circuit has failed and is generating continuous pulses regardless of switch input — a less common cause that produces clicking on all burner electrodes simultaneously without any switch being activated.
DIY PossibleSafe Checks You Can Do
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1
Dry all switch and electrode areas thoroughly
Remove all burner grates and burner caps. Use a clean dry cloth to absorb any visible moisture from the cooktop surface, especially around the base of the control knobs where switches are located. Allow the cooktop to air-dry with the grates off for at least two hours — or use a hair dryer on low heat directed at the switch area for 5 minutes. Restore power and test whether clicking has stopped.
If the clicking started immediately after cleaning the cooktop or after a boil-over, moisture in the switch is almost always the cause, and drying resolves it in most cases. If clicking returns within 24 hours after drying, the switch has failed mechanically and requires replacement.
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2
Identify the stuck switch by disconnecting igniter wires one at a time
Unplug the cooktop. Remove the control knobs (most pull straight off) to access the ignition switch terminals behind each knob. With the cooktop plugged back in momentarily, note which knob position was associated with the loudest clicking during the continuous cycle. Unplug the cooktop again, then disconnect the igniter wire from the suspect switch terminal and restore power briefly. If clicking stops, that switch has failed and requires replacement.
Ignition switches for Kenmore 790-series gas cooktops typically cost from $15 per switch and are available from SearsPartsDirect and RepairClinic by model number. Replace only the specific failed switch — the other switches are likely unaffected.
Tools required
When to Call a Professional
Contact a qualified technician if:
- Clicking continues after all ignition switch wires are individually disconnected and the cooktop is powered — indicating a failed spark module rather than a switch fault
- Ignition switch terminals show corrosion or carbon tracks from sustained arcing at the switch contacts
- Clicking is accompanied by a burning smell from beneath the cooktop during the first 5 minutes of operation
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