Kenmore Washer Drain Pump Making Noise? 3 Things to Check Before You Call a Tech

Debris is the most common cause of drain pump noise. If clearing the filter doesn't fix it, the pump motor or control board may be failing, requiring professional repair.

Updated 2026-10-13 David Chen

Key Takeaways

  • A loud grinding or crackling noise during the drain cycle usually points to the drain pump or its impeller.
  • Before assuming the pump is broken, check the filter and drain hose for trapped debris like coins or buttons.
  • Kenmore washers are built by different OEMs (Whirlpool, LG, etc.), so part numbers vary by model prefix.
  • If the noise continues after clearing debris, a certified technician should inspect the pump motor and control board.

The Bottom Line

Debris is the most common cause of drain pump noise. If clearing the filter doesn't fix it, the pump motor or control board may be failing, requiring professional repair.

What That Noise Actually Means

You're sitting on the couch, your Kenmore washer starts its drain cycle, and then you hear it. A loud grinding, a sharp crackling, or a rhythmic clicking. It's not a subtle hum. It's the sound of something that shouldn't be happening inside the machine.

In my experience, this is almost always the drain pump. The drain pump is a small electric motor with an impeller (a fan-like blade) that spins to push water out of the tub and into the drain hose. When that impeller hits a hard object, or when the motor bearings start to fail, you get that distinctive noise.

It could also be the actuator (the solenoid that opens the drain valve) making a crackling or clicking sound if it's jammed. But the drain pump is the prime suspect because it's the part doing the heavy lifting during that phase of the cycle.

Step 1: Check for Trapped Debris

Before you even think about opening the back of the washer or calling a pro, do this first. It's safe, it's free, and it fixes the problem in a lot of cases.

Locate the drain filter:

On most Kenmore top-loaders and front-loaders, there's a small access panel at the bottom front or side of the machine. Inside, you'll find a drain pump filter or trap.

Clear it out:

Place a towel or a shallow pan under the filter to catch any residual water. Unscrew or unclip the filter. You might find a coin, a button, a hair tie, or a small piece of plastic. This debris often gets sucked into the pump impeller and causes it to grind or stall.

If you remove a coin or a hard object and the noise stops, you've found the culprit. Run a test cycle to confirm. If the noise persists, the problem is likely mechanical, not just a clog.

Kenmore Isn't One Brand. It's Three.

Here's something that trips people up: Kenmore doesn't make its own appliances. It's a retail brand owned by Transformco. The machines are built by OEMs like Whirlpool, LG, or Electrolux.

Why does this matter? Because the drain pump in a Kenmore washer built by Whirlpool is different from one built by LG. The part numbers, the mounting points, and even the failure modes can vary.

Check your model number:

It's usually on a sticker inside the door or on the back of the unit. The first three digits tell you who built it:

  • 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119: Whirlpool
  • 796, 797, 798, 799, 800: LG
  • 417, 418, 419, 430, 431: Electrolux/Frigidaire

Knowing this helps when you're looking for parts or explaining the issue to a technician. It ensures they bring the right components to your home.

When to Call a Pro (And Why DIY Isn't Always Safe)

If clearing the filter didn't fix the noise, the problem is likely one of three things: a damaged impeller, a failing motor bearing, or a faulty control board sending the wrong signals to the pump.

A technician will need to access the pump, which often involves removing internal panels, disconnecting wiring, and testing the motor with a multimeter. This is where I have to be honest: this isn't a job for most homeowners. Why?

  • Electrical safety: The pump is connected to live mains voltage when the machine is on. Improper handling can lead to shock or short circuits.
  • Diagnostic complexity: A grinding noise could mean the impeller is broken, or it could mean the motor is seizing. Swapping the pump when the control board is actually sending erratic signals is a waste of time and money.
  • Cost vs. Benefit: Repair guides note that pump repairs can run about $150 or more when you factor in parts and labor. If the washer is older, the cost of the repair might exceed the value of the machine. A pro can give you an honest assessment.

A certified technician will test the pump's continuity, check for physical damage to the impeller, and verify that the control board is sending the correct signals. If the pump is bad, they'll replace it. If the control board is failing, they'll address that. Either way, it's done safely and correctly.

What Does a Drain Pump Repair Cost?

Hard to say without a specific model, but here's what techs commonly report:

Component Estimated Part Cost Labor Estimate
Drain Pump Assembly $40 - $80 $100 - $200
Control Board $80 - $150 $100 - $200
Diagnostic Fee Varies by provider Often waived if you proceed with repair

These are rough estimates. The actual cost depends on the specific model, the location of the unit, and whether the repair involves just the pump or also the control board. Get a written quote before any work begins.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I just replace the drain pump myself?

You technically can, but it's not recommended. The pump is often located behind internal panels and is connected to electrical wiring and water hoses.

If you don't disconnect the power correctly, you risk shock. If you don't seal the hoses properly, you can cause a leak. A technician has the tools and the knowledge to do it safely and quickly.

Is a crackling noise always the drain pump?

Not always. A crackling or clicking sound can also come from the drain actuator (the solenoid that opens the drain valve). If the actuator is jammed, it can make a similar noise. A technician will test both components to determine which one is failing.

My washer is making noise but still drains. Should I worry?

Yes. If the pump is struggling, it can overheat and fail completely.

A pump that is grinding is a pump that is about to die. If it stops working, you'll have a full tub of water that won't drain, which can lead to leaks and water damage. Addressing it now is cheaper than fixing a flooded basement.

Does Kenmore offer a warranty on these repairs?

Kenmore offers a limited warranty on new appliances, but it varies by model and part. For out-of-warranty repairs, the warranty is on the labor and parts provided by the service provider. Using an independent technician doesn't void your original warranty under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, as long as the repair doesn't cause the problem.

What if the noise is a loud banging instead of a grinding?

A loud banging is often a different issue. It could be a loose belt, a broken suspension rod, or a failing bearing in the drum.

If you hear a rhythmic banging during the spin cycle, it's likely not the drain pump. It's a different part of the machine. A technician will need to diagnose the specific sound to pinpoint the cause.

If the noise persists after you've checked the filter, it's time to call a professional. You can schedule a service visit or check out our washer repair services to learn more about what we offer. For more general troubleshooting tips, visit our washer error codes page.

Feedback

Was This Guide Helpful?

Explore more resources or get in touch if you need further assistance.